4 days in Lifelisting Paradise
October 2012
Written on 1/23/2012
After we left Barton Creek Outpost (see Jungle Fishing blog) we traveled for a month before flying home. Before heading to the coast we spent a week in San Ignacio, in Cayo District, and went on several awesome tours. One day we toured the Mountain Pine Ridge, another we checked out the Mayan ruins at Cahel Pech, and before leaving Cayo we went on an epic and totally surreal tour of Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM).
San Ignacio, our "hometown" for over a month.
Rio Frio Cave entrance, Mountain Pine Ridge:
Inside Rio Frio Cave, Mountain Pine Ridge:
Joy swimming at Rio on Pools in the Mountain Pine Ridge. I opted to stay dry, as I was nursing a ring worm infection...
Joy jumping in at Big Rock Falls in the Mountain Pine Ridge.
Cahel Pech, located in San Ignacio, contains some cool Mayan ruins. We walked up a steep hill to reach them. Here are a couple photos from Cahel Pech:
No camera's were allowed in ATM, but I highly recommend the experience. After an hour van ride along the Western Highway and then down a rough trail into Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve, we donned hardhats equipped with headlights and hiked through the jungle, fording a stream three times along the way. The cave entrance was beautiful. Dense schools of banded tetra and loose cruising schools of northern checkmark cichlids swam in the ultra-clear water. Lush green jungle surrounded us, and the cave entrance held a deep pool of blue water. To enter ATM, we had to swim into the cave. Then we waded a mile into the dark (the water was frigid!), spotting catfish and signs of the Mayans before climbing into an upper passageway. There, we removed our shoes, and were lead in awe through chambers full of Mayan ceramics. How they got them up there unbroken, without flashlights or other modern technology, is amazing. But the climax, 3 hours into the spelunking expedition, was the crystal maiden, tucked away in an even higher chamber that we climbed up into, a full human skeleton - the centuries-old remnants of a Mayan sacrificial offering.
The way back was a worthy experience in itself. We took alternative paths where we had to shimmy through shoots of water in constricted passages. Finally, when we emerged into daylight, lunch and another hike in the warm jungle were welcome. While we didn't get to take pictures, any photographs would be poor subsitutes for the actual experience and memories from our adventure in ATM, the Cave of the Crystal Sepulchre.
After such a fun week in Cayo, it was hard to imagine things could get any more fun. Yet we were headed for Tobacco Caye, an island right on the barrier reef about the size of a football stadium, for four days of fishing. After a bus transfer in Belmopan, the capitol of Belize, we were conveyed through the Maya Mountains along the beautiful Hummingbird Highway to Dangriga, a laid-back fishing town on the coast, where we negotiated transport to Tobacco Caye.
Capitol buildings in Belmopan, designed to abstractly resemble Mayan architecture:
We had actually planned to spend a night in Dangriga, but when we found the place we planned to stay closed we made the decision to head to the tropical island early. Luckily we brought some peanut butter, bread, rum, and 2 gallons of bottled water with us. Once on the island we realized nobody could accept a credit or debit card, and we didn't have a lot of cash. There are no stores on Tobacco Caye and the Belizean-owned resorts offered a 3-meal plan included with each night's stay. We stretched the trip into four days by negotiating 1/2 price for the first two days, foregoing home-cooked meals the first two days and instead choking down stale peanut butter sandwiches. We had just a few Belizean dollars which we exchanged for a couple packs of cookies and some french fries at the only bar/snack vender on the island.
The fishing, snorkeling, relaxing and reading in paradise made up for the meager meals on Day 1 and Day 2. The food situation improved dramatically on Days 3&4, with gigantic portions of delicious meals thrice daily. Thankfully, the boat captain ferried us to the mainland and let us get some cash from an ATM there to pay for the ride.
Approaching Tobacco Caye from the sea:
View from our cabin porch.
Note the fishable water in the lower right. We caught lifelisters from our porch! You can also see the barrier reef, which broke the big waves coming in from across the Caribbean. It was supremely relaxing and awesome to sit out on the porch at night, face a stiff sea breeze, and look up at the stars, contemplate, chat, and drink rum. The porch was also a prime place to escape the fiery midday sun and do some reading.
We even saw Caribbean sting rays from our porch:
We did a lot of fishing, and caught a lot of fish. I caught 12 lifelisters on Tobacco Caye (putting me up to 202 total species!): Beaugregory, Frillfin Goby, Sharksucker, Graysby, Yellowfin Mojarra, Queen Triggerfish, Sand Tilefish, Red Hind, Redtail Parrotfish, Longspine Squirrelfish, Bluehead, and Yellow Stringray.
Joy added 11 lifelisters on Tobacco Caye: Beaugregory, Frillfin Goby, Graysby, Black Hamlet, Doctorfish, Bluehead, Yellowfin Mojarra, Queen Triggerfish, Yellow Stingray, Peacock Flounder, and Longspine Squirrelfish.
Beaugregory hid in and around conch shells right by our cabin. Bread didn't stay on the hook well, and luckily I found small worms in the sand by digging. We each caught Beaugregory on micro hooks.
We also caught some Frillfin Goby, Schoolmaster, and Yellowfin Mojarra in the sheltered water near our cabin porch:
Frillfin Goby:
Crossing to the western side of the island the first morning, I caught some French Grunts that were schooled in the shallows by conch shells under a dock. I used some of these for cut bait, and watched as a pair of big Caribbean stingrays cruised through and tossed my bait in behind them. Suddenly something was running hard with the bait, and I first thought I'd somehow snagged a ray. But no, this was a fish. I played it in and saw it was a sharksucker, a member of the remora family! Nervous it might get off, I carefully tired it out and reached down to grab and lift it from the water. Note the disk on the head, which this fish uses to catch a ride on rays and sharks.
One of many, many French Grunts:
We also caught White Grunt and Bluestriped Grunt. Not lifelisters, but really cool looking fish. The insides of their mouths are bright orange.
White Grunt:
Bluestriped Grunt:
We dropped bait to the bottom of the deeper docks and pulled up some other cool stuff alongside the grunts.
Graysby:
Red Hind:
Joy got a Black Hamlet.
Doctorfish. These guys could really pull hard! We caught quite a few of them:
A big barracuda grabbed this Doctorfish while I was pulling him in. After tearing off some drag, the predator released its grip and I landed this poor fish. While I had targeted and had barracuda on the line, I failed to lifelist that awesome species in Tobacco Caye.
One afternoon Joy hung out to read at the cabin and I braved the direct sun to cast out to some deep water over the reef. I was rewarded with some really cool new species!
My personal best Yellowtail Snapper:
This unexpected Sand Tilefish. The black spots might be parasites...I don't think they would usually have spots. It was a very slippery fish, and pricked me good with its opercular spine. I managed a couple of good photos before releasing it.
On the very next cast I pulled in another unexpected and extraordinary fish. I felt like a kid in a candy store!
Queen Triggerfish:
I also caught a bunch of grunts and Slippery Dicks (a common type of wrasse). After such wild success, I went back and had lunch with Joy, and then we returned together.
Joy also got a Queen Triggerfish:
I caught a handsome Red Hind:
...and my first parrotfish, a type of fish I really wanted to get in Belize! This one is a Redtail Parrotfish:
We did lots of snorkeling amongst all the fishing. We snorkeled along the deep reef a couple times and the large coral formations and diversity of fish made it feel like we were swimming through a scene from a Discovery Channel documentary. We saw patrols of Redtail, Stoplight, Redband, and Princess parrotfish swimming around, stopping here and there to pick at corals. We saw Caribbean stingrays 4 feet in diameter cruising through the water column. We saw some sort of pipefish trying to blend in with some sea grass. We saw a trio of cuttlefish. In the nooks and crannies of the reef hid various squirrelfishes. Yellowtail Snapper swam over the top of the reef, tail swinging steadily from side to side, propelling the fish. Grunts schooled together and colorful wrasses flitted around near the bottom. Rock Hind slid sideways in and out of crevices in the coral. The clear water was deep blue, and we had fun doing flips underwater, loving where we were.
We also snorkeled in the harbor area, where a long metal box-like structure held a line-up of big, grumpy looking Green Moray Eels. Large schools of grunts hovered in the water, hardly moving as we swam past. Damselfish hung close to their territories, swimming in little circles. A huge ray almost swam into me. Yellowtail Mojarra picked at the sandy bottom, searching for invertebrates. A big barracuda swam off in the distance.
Finally, we snorkeled along the docks and sandy flats on the northwest side of the island. More mojarra schooled over the sea grass, and a few barracuda lurked near the docks. A huge school of Bluestriped Grunt sought shadow under the dock, along with thousands of tiny baitfish.
Then we fished some more, excited even more by all that was out there. Joy saw and sight-fished up a Yellow Stingray, making me super jealous!
But then, I caught my own!
Joy didn't take long to catch another fish that I would have loved to add to my fishing lifelist, but I was not able to get one. The Peacock Flounder!
We saw a crazy looking Spotted Moray Eel in a pile of Conch shells. We took turns trying for it, and we each had it take our bait several times, but we both failed to catch it. The hook kept coming out, or the Moray retreated into the sharp pile of shells and we were forced to pull until the line cut.
I also lifelisted the Longspine Squirrelfish. This wasn't just any lifelister, it was my 200th species, launching me into the "200" club. This was a big goal of mine for our trip to Belize, and another step towards my lifetime goal of 1000 species.
We tried nightfishing, and although it was slow, Joy managed to lifelist the Longspine Squirrelfish too.
Joy had trouble getting a Yellowfin Mojarra to bite, and she was relieved and excited when finally she hooked and landed one.
We also spent a good deal of time using micro hooks, and trying to catch Bluehead, a type of wrasse with an awesome color patter. It was challenging to keep the bait near the Bluehead without ubiquitous grunts and Slippery Dick stealing the bait.
Bluehead. The top one is an adult, the bottom a juvenile:
We also walked around and took some photos.
Black-throated Green Warbler (?):
Spotted Eagle Ray cruising past.
Storm coming in from beyond the reef.
After 4 amazing days catching dozens of awesome species, many of them lifelisters for one or both of us, it came time to move on to our next destination. The fact that our next stop was a seven day fishing and "touristing" stay on Caye Caulker made leaving Tobacco Caye a little bit easier.
Sun set over Belize, from Tobacco Caye. You can make out the Maya mountains on the mainland.